It's beautiful here : NAMIBIA
It truly is beautiful here.
If you’re looking for a holiday where you hardly see a soul, with zero phone coverage and a night sky so clear you can see the milky way - then Namibia is a safe bet.
Outside Otjiwarongo, low on petrol.
I read this blog post, this one and also this one before I booked my trip. There is absolutely no phone reception unless you’re on wifi at a hotel, so if that scares you, add a satellite phone when you organise car hire. I personally loved not using my phone for the entire trip but, as always, you do you.
This country is ENORMOUS (3.5x bigger than the UK) so I’d recommend a min of two weeks to allow for driving times between destinations.
All flights land in the capital, Windhoek, which is super convenient as it’s in the centre of the country. You can also drive up from South Africa or in from Botswana if you prefer. It’s a 2 hour flight from Johannesburg and 11 hours from London.
My own personal route for this trip was:
London —> Johannesburg —> Windhoek —> Sossusvlei & Deadvlei —> Windhoek —> Etosha National Park —> Windhoek —> Johannesburg —> London.
Next trip I’ll be hitting Walvis Bay, Swakopmund and the Skeleton Coast.
I cannot stress this enough - fill your car with petrol the second you see a petrol station. Even if you’re 3/4 full in the tank, trust me, you will almost run out of petrol a few times in this country. Distances are vast and petrol stations are scarce. Hire a 4x4 if you’re planning on seeing the Skeleton Coast as the roads are almost all sand.
Here’s my five favourite things about Namibia.
1. Sossusvlei, Deadvlei and 2. Dune 45
The 3 main reasons for visiting imho. An entire area (Namib-Naukluft National Park) filled with sand dunes and long, never-ending roads.
Dune 45 is named for the 45kms it is situated from Sesrium Gate. Paved roads all the way to the dune so you don’t need a 4x4. At 560ft (170m) it is Namibia’s highest dune and one of it’s most photographed.
900 year old dead camel trees.
Directly translated, Deadvlei = Dead Marsh and it really is dead. No water for 900 years.
“Close to Sossusvlei, Deadvlei is a clay pan characterized by dark, dead camel thorn trees contrasted against the white pan floor. The pan was formed when the Tsauchab River flooded and the abundance of water allowed camel thorn trees to grow. However, the climate changed and the sand dunes encroached on the pan, blocking the river from reaching the area. The trees are estimated to be approximately 900 years old, however they have not decomposed due to the dry climate.”
3. Sleep (Sossusvlei)
Close to the gate and extremely comfy, I stayed a few nights at Sossusvlei Lodge and loved it. Pool, clean one bedroom suites, super fast wifi, lovely curio shop filled with Namibian trinkets and best views over the desert for sunset.
4. Etosha National Park
Six hours drive from Windhoek towards Angola is the Etosha National Park (Great White Place).
I chose to stay on the Namutoni side of the park, mainly down to my accommodation choices but also to see the Etosha Pan which is a massive salt pan 120kms long.
Namibia is also home to the Big Five (lion, elephant, rhinoceros, leopard, and Cape buffalo) if this is what you’re after. There are only 5,500 black rhinos left in the world and half of them are here in Namibia. I was lucky enough to see a beautiful male black rhino ambling across the salt pan.
There is a strictness to the running of this National Park that I’ve never seen when I’ve safari’d in South Africa. Absolutely no getting out of vehicles (even to pee!) and the park’s closure and opening times feel a little Swiss with their seriousness.
Self-drive safari’s are an option in Etosha but I personally prefer to be in a park vehicle with a game ranger. They know so much about the park and where the animals are hiding that you miss out on in your own vehicle.
Gnu / Wildebeest.
Zebra.
Giraffe couple.
Baby elephant taking a dust bath while Mom watches.
4. Sleep (Etosha National Park)
I split my time in Etosha between two of the Onguma Lodges:
Onguma Tree Top Camp
Onguma Tented Camp
You’re not permitted to leave your suite after bed time due to wild animals roaming around the camp. I had a leopard decide to sleep on my patio one night which was INSANE!
The lodge provides daily game drives and also walking safaris which I highly recommend. There is also a spa at The Fort which gives the best massages.
Sunrise at Tree Top Camp.
Sunrise at Tented Camp watering hole.